The (Not so) Rural Pennsylvanian

  • The Paper Mill Museum and Bartrams Covered Bridge

    The Paper Mill Museum is a historic three story stone building along Darby Creek in Newtown Township, Delaware County that contains an 1850’s era general store, and three levels of a local history museum containing artifacts representing the history of Newtown Township. The original building was constructed in 1828 to house four families that worked at the local mills along the Darby Creek. An addition was built in 1845 to contain a general store that served the community that grew up around the mills. In the immediate area of the site were the William Crosley Woolen Mill (1828-1861) and Casper S. Garrett’s Union Paper Mill (1869-1889). The building overlooks the creek and a stone bridge that carries St. David’s Road over the creek. A modern wooden pedestrian bridge over the creek connects the building to the parking area for the site.

    Along the creek in the area are archeological remains of both old mills, including building foundations, the millrace, and other traces of the mill activity. The site was recognized as historically significant in 2002 when it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

    The structure stood in ruins in the early 1980’s, without a roof, without a use, and destined for demolition. However, the history of the building and the site was recognized by a small handful of civic minded Newtown residents, and through their efforts and those of many other volunteers, the building was acquired by the Township, and then enclosed to protect it from the elements. Over the last 25 years, the Building has been restored, inside and out, and now houses a recreated general store from the mid-19th century, and a museum containing artifacts collected and donated by Newtown residents that represent some of the history of the Township and its people.

    Here are some views of the exterior and the grounds:

    Not far away sits Bartram’s Covered Bridge, which spans the county line between Delaware and Chester Counties over Crum Creek in Newtown Square. As such, it is the last covered bridge remaining in Delaware County, a county which once had over 30 covered bridges. The bridge has unique slanted plank portals, the only bridge in Pennsylvania with this unusual design.

    Built in 1860 by Ferdinand Wood, who designed the portals to be “Hi and Wide as a Load of Hay,” the bridge is 80 feet long by 13 feet wide. The original cost of $1,133 to build the bridge was shared by Delaware and Chester Counties. It is named for Mordecai Bartram, an adjacent landowner. The bridge design, pioneered by Theodore Burr, features the Burr Truss, commonly found in Pennsylvania covered bridges of the time. At one time, the words “LINCOLN, Save Union and Congress” were still visibly painted inside the bridge. The last traces of this old graffiti from 1860 are believed to have been lost during the last restoration of the bridge in 1995.

    The bridge closed to traffic in 1941. The bridge was first rehabilitated in the 1960’s (at the time by the Marple Newtown Historical Society). After years of neglect, the bridge was restored in 1995, funded by a combination of donations, grants and fundraising. The bridge is on the National Register of Historic Places.

    The bridge appears to have had some additional work since I last visited. There is now a gravel parking area on the west side of the bridge, in addition to on street parking on a side street to the east.

  • A Stop for Some Culture

    The Southern Alleghenies Museum of Art has a branch in Ligonier. The grounds feature some beautiful statuary while indoors the featured exhibit focused on the nearby Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece, Fallingwater, at the time of my visit. The museum is free, but donations are appreciated.

    I like the whimsy in the sculptures, which also feel very organic.

    A sampling of pieces featuring Fallingwater and a collection of glass paperweights.

  • “Across America” on the Brandywine

    It was interesting to see a photography exhibit at the Brandywine Museum of Art. “Robert Frank and Todd Webb: Across America, 1955” ran from February 09, 2025 to May 08, 2025. I made a point of seeing it before it left.

    More details about the exhibit can be found at the Museum’s website. In 1955, two photographers, Robert Frank and Todd Webb, received separate fellowships from the Guggenheim Foundation for U.S. survey projects. The exhibit includes over 100 photographs from these fellowships.

    This is the type of documentary-like photographic work that I find interesting. Webb stated that he wished to “depict vanishing Americana and what is taking place”  – sentiments in line with what I am trying to achieve with this blog. Much of the small town and rural landscape continues to be eaten up by development, and documenting this moment in time is very important.

    I ended up recording a lot more of Webb’s work, which is better composed and exposed compared to the grainy, off-kilter work of Frank. Frank’s work is, however, better known and often depicts the grittier side of American life. Webb’s work has more of a nostalgic, Rockwell-like feel. The works encompass photos from Portland, Maine to New York City to San Francisco and everywhere in between. I was pleasantly surprised to find several work depicting Pennsylvania by Webb. If you can find a catalog, several other shots taken in the state are included.

    Apologies for the light blub reflections here. I am still getting used to some new photo processing software. I have just done some cropping and straightening of camera phone photos.

    Quitting Business, Aliquippa, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Highland Boatyard, Aliquippa, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Bedford, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Diner, Ouray, CO 1955 by Todd Webb
    Halfway, Kinsley KS by Todd Webb
    Rodeo, Lexington NE and Buffalo, Garden City KS by Todd Webb
    Rodeo, New York City by Robert Frank

    Now, for some fun. Here are some of my favorite pieces from the Museum.

    Island Funeral by N.C. Wyeth
    Pig by Jamie Wyeth. This canvas is life size (huge).

  • The Genius of Wharton Esherick

    The Brandywine Museum of Art recently hosted an exhibition of the work of Wharton Esherick, roughly coinciding with their holiday displays. Wharton Esherick (July 15, 1887 – May 6, 1970) was an American artist and designer who worked in a wide variety of art media, including painting, printmaking, and sculpture. His design works range from architectural interiors to handheld, tactile objects like light pulls and chess pieces. Esherick is best known for his wood furniture, which synthesizes modernist sculptural form with functional craft. You can also visit his home and workshop in Malvern, Chester County.

  • More Looks Around Havre de Grace

    My Christmas post featured a look at an inn in the Maryland town of Havre de Grace back in November. Here are some the sites from this historic and picturesque town at the mouth of the Susquehanna.

    The lighthouse at Concord Point Park is a signature feature of the town.

    The lightkeeper’s house.
    The Maritime Museum.
    Is this a houseboat?
    The Decoy Museum. I love the sculpture out front.
    The Havre de Grace Colored School has been converted in to a museum and cultural center.
    The Moore Family Homestead.
    A lighthouse playground at Millard E. Tydings Park.
    What a great house near the main shopping district.
    Havre de Grace is known for its murals and other public art.

  • Twelfth Night

    The Twelve Days of Christmas refer to the period between Christmas and Epiphany. Since it is still ’tis the season, I thought I’d share some photos of Christmas at the Brandywine Museum of Art.

    They are known for ornaments made from natural materials.
    Some works from the Brandywine River School.
    A special display of miniatures, including this train set.
    One of the dollhouses.
    The star attraction – a beloved, and large, model train display.

  • An Inspirational Farm

    The Kuerner Farm, also known as Ring Farm, is located in Chadds Ford. It is notable for its association with artist Andrew Wyeth, who created about one-third of his work, more than 1,000 paintings and drawings, on subjects he found there during a span of seventy-seven years.

    In 1926, Karl Kuerner and his wife Anna rented the farm, which they bought in 1940. Karl had been a sheepherder near the Black Forest in his native Germany, and had been a machine gunner in the German Army during World War I. Andrew Wyeth’s first painting of the farm was completed in 1932, when Wyeth was just fifteen years old. The farm was listed in the National Register of Historic Places and declared a National Historic Landmark in 2011.The property abuts the Brandywine Battlefield, another National Historic Landmark. The farm is open to public tours, operated by the Brandywine River Museum.

    I had a previous opportunity to photograph a wide shot of the farm , but I was recently able to get on one of the public tours. The first stop on the tour was the farmhouse,

    A springhouse, perhaps, near the front door.
    Apparently, Mrs. Kuerner loved wallpaper.
    An example of the progression of Wyeth’s work. The left was painted at the farmhouse while Karl Kuerner was ill.
    This sink has appeared in Wyeth’s work.
    These cuties were a big hit,

  • A Special Urban Park

    Nay Aug Park sits in 73 wooded acres in Scranton. The name Nay Aug traces its origin to the Munsee Indians, a sub group of the larger Lenape tribe. In their language Nay Aug means “noisy water or roaring brook.” The Munsee settled along the banks of the Roaring Brook and were a peaceful group mostly committed to fishing and farming.

    Nay Aug Park was established in 1893. Scranton’s 9th Mayor, W.L. Connell directed the purchase of 2 acres of land in the city’s east side from the Beckett Estate. The early years were a boom for the citizens of Scranton and the park. The population was growing and leaders had the foresight to realize the need for a place to gather. The city purchased five more acres of land from the Beckett Estate. Scranton received donations of land from the Watres Estate and Lackawanna Iron and Coal which owned the majority of land the park now occupies.

    There was an amusement park located on the eastern side which was called Luna Park. It opened in 1906 and met with a disastrous fire in 1916. It never recovered and subsequently closed for good. The land was incorporated into what is now Nay Aug Park. The park today contains a variety of attractions and hosts a wide array of activities throughout the year,

    The Everhart Museum, the largest in the northeast, houses artifacts related to natural history, science and art.
    A portion of the park was once a zoo.
    The David Wenzel Treehouse is a really impressive and unique structure built in 2007.
    A great view down into Nay Aug Gorge.
    I love the way this house seems perched on the hillside.
    A little excitement in the air from the treehouse.
    Some of the old zoo buildings have been converted to Street Cats, an adoption and spay and neuter charity for feral cats.

  • An Electrifying Trolley Museum

    The Electric City Trolley Museum sits across the parking lot from the Steamtown National Historic Site. Due to time constraints, I didn’t have the chance to look inside the day I was there. It is a premier electric railway museum . In 1887, Scranton was Pennsylvania was the first city with a successful pioneer trolley line and became known as “The Electric City.” The museum collection provides a highly representative picture of the electric railway history of eastern Pennsylvania, from the Philadelphia region to Northeast Pennsylvania. Trolley rides are offered seasonally,

    The museum was created by the Lackawanna Heritage Valley Authority. Lackawanna County manages the museum day-to-day. The facility itself, located on the Steamtown National Historic Site, is on long-term lease from the National Park Service. The trolleys operate over tracks owned by both Steamtown and the Pennsylvania Northeast Regional Railroad Authority, including a portion of the historic Lackawanna & Wyoming Valley’s Laurel Line third-rail interurban right-of-way.

    All the way to Scranton to see a Septa trolley.

  • A Steamy Day in Scranton

    I ended my visit to northeastern Pennsylvania in Scranton. The Steamtown National Historic Site  is a railroad museum and heritage railroad located in downtown Scranton, Pennsylvania, at the site of the former Scranton yards of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad (DL&W). Not all parts of the site were open to the public due to maintenance activities during my visit.

    The museum is built around a working turntable and a roundhouse that are largely replications of the original DL&W facilities; the roundhouse, for example, was reconstructed from remnants of a 1932 structure. The site also features several original outbuildings dated between 1899 and 1902. All the buildings on the site are listed with the National Register of Historic Places as part of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad Yard-Dickson Manufacturing Co. Site.

    One of the steam locomotive around the parking area.
    …, and some more.
    Display locomotives around the turntable.

    A lot of looks at the turntable.

    Locomotives on display inside the Roundhouse.

    A look inside the museum at some of the exhibits.

    This is a working rail yard and train rides are available.
    A steam locomotive in action.
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