The (Not so) Rural Pennsylvanian

  • The Paper Mill Museum and Bartrams Covered Bridge

    The Paper Mill Museum is a historic three story stone building along Darby Creek in Newtown Township, Delaware County that contains an 1850’s era general store, and three levels of a local history museum containing artifacts representing the history of Newtown Township. The original building was constructed in 1828 to house four families that worked at the local mills along the Darby Creek. An addition was built in 1845 to contain a general store that served the community that grew up around the mills. In the immediate area of the site were the William Crosley Woolen Mill (1828-1861) and Casper S. Garrett’s Union Paper Mill (1869-1889). The building overlooks the creek and a stone bridge that carries St. David’s Road over the creek. A modern wooden pedestrian bridge over the creek connects the building to the parking area for the site.

    Along the creek in the area are archeological remains of both old mills, including building foundations, the millrace, and other traces of the mill activity. The site was recognized as historically significant in 2002 when it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

    The structure stood in ruins in the early 1980’s, without a roof, without a use, and destined for demolition. However, the history of the building and the site was recognized by a small handful of civic minded Newtown residents, and through their efforts and those of many other volunteers, the building was acquired by the Township, and then enclosed to protect it from the elements. Over the last 25 years, the Building has been restored, inside and out, and now houses a recreated general store from the mid-19th century, and a museum containing artifacts collected and donated by Newtown residents that represent some of the history of the Township and its people.

    Here are some views of the exterior and the grounds:

    Not far away sits Bartram’s Covered Bridge, which spans the county line between Delaware and Chester Counties over Crum Creek in Newtown Square. As such, it is the last covered bridge remaining in Delaware County, a county which once had over 30 covered bridges. The bridge has unique slanted plank portals, the only bridge in Pennsylvania with this unusual design.

    Built in 1860 by Ferdinand Wood, who designed the portals to be “Hi and Wide as a Load of Hay,” the bridge is 80 feet long by 13 feet wide. The original cost of $1,133 to build the bridge was shared by Delaware and Chester Counties. It is named for Mordecai Bartram, an adjacent landowner. The bridge design, pioneered by Theodore Burr, features the Burr Truss, commonly found in Pennsylvania covered bridges of the time. At one time, the words “LINCOLN, Save Union and Congress” were still visibly painted inside the bridge. The last traces of this old graffiti from 1860 are believed to have been lost during the last restoration of the bridge in 1995.

    The bridge closed to traffic in 1941. The bridge was first rehabilitated in the 1960’s (at the time by the Marple Newtown Historical Society). After years of neglect, the bridge was restored in 1995, funded by a combination of donations, grants and fundraising. The bridge is on the National Register of Historic Places.

    The bridge appears to have had some additional work since I last visited. There is now a gravel parking area on the west side of the bridge, in addition to on street parking on a side street to the east.

  • A Park and a Historic Church

    The Willows Park Preserve in northwestern Delaware Country has been a popular spot for birding, fishing, picnicking and walking for decades. Built in 1910, the Willows Mansion is surrounded by 47.5 acres of public park with water, meadow, woodland and garden views. Closed for nearly a decade, the deteriorating mansion sits idle while park life carries on. However, efforts to restore the Mansion are ongoing. It was once a very popular wedding reception venue.

    The pond, fed by Little Darby Creek, is popular with fisherman. The stream is stocked.
    Who you looking at?
    Some interesting tiles on the bridge over Little Darby.
    He’s behind me, right? Parent Robin pursued by begging fledgling.
    A good look at a fledgling robin.
    Looks like a female red-winged blackbird.

    I made another stop that day at St. Davids Church, which lies mostly within Radnor Township, Delaware County. The parish is more than 300 years old. Toward the close of the seventeenth century, a hardy group of Welsh colonists settled in an area which became known as Radnor. In 1704, a 100-signature petition for Welsh prayer books and a Bible, but more particularly for a Welsh-speaking missionary, was dispatched to the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in London. Ten years later, in return for this long-awaited recognition, the settlers “heartily engaged themselves to build a handsome stone church,” to be named after the Patron Saint of Wales. The cornerstone was laid on May 9, 1715.

    With the coming of the Revolution in the colonies, a rapidly swelling wave of resentment against the Church of England arose among the patriots of the congregation. A leader of this opposition was Anthony Wayne, later appointed major general of the American forces, who is buried in St. David’s historic churchyard. The church building provided shelter for soldiers of both sides.

    A view of the original church.
    The churchyard is a tranquil place.
    Some lovely color on these trees in late Spring.
    As an old church, there are some interesting mausoleums.

  • “Across America” on the Brandywine

    It was interesting to see a photography exhibit at the Brandywine Museum of Art. “Robert Frank and Todd Webb: Across America, 1955” ran from February 09, 2025 to May 08, 2025. I made a point of seeing it before it left.

    More details about the exhibit can be found at the Museum’s website. In 1955, two photographers, Robert Frank and Todd Webb, received separate fellowships from the Guggenheim Foundation for U.S. survey projects. The exhibit includes over 100 photographs from these fellowships.

    This is the type of documentary-like photographic work that I find interesting. Webb stated that he wished to “depict vanishing Americana and what is taking place”  – sentiments in line with what I am trying to achieve with this blog. Much of the small town and rural landscape continues to be eaten up by development, and documenting this moment in time is very important.

    I ended up recording a lot more of Webb’s work, which is better composed and exposed compared to the grainy, off-kilter work of Frank. Frank’s work is, however, better known and often depicts the grittier side of American life. Webb’s work has more of a nostalgic, Rockwell-like feel. The works encompass photos from Portland, Maine to New York City to San Francisco and everywhere in between. I was pleasantly surprised to find several work depicting Pennsylvania by Webb. If you can find a catalog, several other shots taken in the state are included.

    Apologies for the light blub reflections here. I am still getting used to some new photo processing software. I have just done some cropping and straightening of camera phone photos.

    Quitting Business, Aliquippa, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Highland Boatyard, Aliquippa, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Bedford, PA 1955 by Todd Webb
    Diner, Ouray, CO 1955 by Todd Webb
    Halfway, Kinsley KS by Todd Webb
    Rodeo, Lexington NE and Buffalo, Garden City KS by Todd Webb
    Rodeo, New York City by Robert Frank

    Now, for some fun. Here are some of my favorite pieces from the Museum.

    Island Funeral by N.C. Wyeth
    Pig by Jamie Wyeth. This canvas is life size (huge).

  • The Genius of Wharton Esherick

    The Brandywine Museum of Art recently hosted an exhibition of the work of Wharton Esherick, roughly coinciding with their holiday displays. Wharton Esherick (July 15, 1887 – May 6, 1970) was an American artist and designer who worked in a wide variety of art media, including painting, printmaking, and sculpture. His design works range from architectural interiors to handheld, tactile objects like light pulls and chess pieces. Esherick is best known for his wood furniture, which synthesizes modernist sculptural form with functional craft. You can also visit his home and workshop in Malvern, Chester County.

  • Twelfth Night

    The Twelve Days of Christmas refer to the period between Christmas and Epiphany. Since it is still ’tis the season, I thought I’d share some photos of Christmas at the Brandywine Museum of Art.

    They are known for ornaments made from natural materials.
    Some works from the Brandywine River School.
    A special display of miniatures, including this train set.
    One of the dollhouses.
    The star attraction – a beloved, and large, model train display.

  • Another Chadds Ford Gem

    Last week we visited the N.C. Wyeth House and Studio. The nearby Andrew Wyeth Studio can also be visited via a tour from Brandywine Museum of Art. The site is described on brandywine.org as:

    Andrew Wyeth, one of America’s best-known twentieth-century artists, painted many of his most important works of art in his Chadds Ford studio. Given to the Brandywine Museum of Art by the artist’s wife, Betsy James Wyeth, the studio provides visitors with a unique opportunity to experience this very personal space…. This studio, a repurposed schoolhouse originally built in 1875, served as the artist’s principal Pennsylvania workplace from 1940 to 2008. Thousands of paintings and drawings were created there, inspired by the people, architecture and landscapes of Chadds Ford. The studio still houses the furnishings, library and collections acquired by the artist, as well as examples of the art materials he used throughout his career.

    The exterior of the house.
    This sign says it all.
    The kitchen
    A library with films and …
    some interesting dioramas.
    The German military uniform worn by Karl Kuerner is several of Wyeth’s works.
    Jamie Wyeth used this room as a studio.
    A look inside Wyeth’s studio.
    The painting is reflected by the mirror.
    Because I really liked the shape of this tree branch.

    The site is only available on limited dates and times, so please check with the Brandywine Museum of Art for more details.

  • Chadds Ford’s Artistic Legacy

    The N.C. Wyeth House and Studio makes a lovely trip in the early Spring. One can visit the house and studio via a guided tour which leaves from the Brandywine River Museum and is definitely a must see for Wyeth fans. N.C. Wyeth is primarily known as an illustrator but worked on other subject matter as well. The property is only available for tours with limited dates and times, so please check the website at brandwyine.org for more information.

    The site is described on the website as follows: In 1911, with the proceeds from his illustrations for Treasure Island, the artist N.C. Wyeth purchased 18 acres of land near the village of Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania. Possessed, he described it as “the most glorious site in the township.”

    The house and studio, located five minutes from the museum, retain much of their original character. The main studio, with its spectacular Palladian-style north window, still contains many of the props that were essential to the work of an illustrator, including a birch-bark canoe and a collection of firearms. A full-size mural painting, displayed in a soaring 1923 addition, helps tell the story of Wyeth’s career. The house, with its country furnishings, reveals a more intimate picture of family life.

    The N.C. Wyeth House and Studio is a National Historic Landmark and a member of the Historic Artists’ Homes and Studios program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

    A view of the house and barn.
    The barn
    A look inside at some of the downstairs rooms is included in the tour.
    A view of the side of the barn with some artists at work.
    The palatial windows of the Studio open Wyeth’s workspace up to natural light.
    “Island Funeral” – this is now one of my favorite works by Wyeth. The original was in the Museum.
    I particularly liked this book shelf with the ships’ models and the animal which I think is a river otter.
    A work depicting William Penn and the founding of the Commonwealth.
    The artists tools as he left them the day he died.

  • The Battle of Brandywine

    I recently started watching the “Franklin” TV series on Apple TV+ which mentions the injury to the Marquis de Lafayette during the Battle of Brandywine. Coincidentally, I had visited part of the battlefield site a few weeks before.

    The Brandywine Battlefield Historic Site is a National Historical Landmark which is owned and operated by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, on 52 acres (210,000 m2), near Chadds Ford, Delaware County. This area is a partial site of the Battle of Brandywine, which was fought on September 11, 1777. The battle was a decisive victory for the British and cleared a path directly to the capital in Philadelphia.

    Brandywine Battlefield Park became a Pennsylvania State Park in 1949 and a National Historic Landmark in 1961. Although the battle area covered more than ten square miles, or 35,000 acres, the modern park only covers the fifty acres that served primarily as the Continental encampment during the two days prior to the battle. To the north, another part of the battlefield is maintained by Birmingham Township, Chester County as “Battlefield of the Brandywine Park,” or “Sandy Hollow Heritage Park.” Much of the afternoon’s fighting took place between Birmingham Friends Meetinghouse and the William Brinton 1704 House near Dilworthtown. A subsequent engagement occurred during the Battle of Paoli. The Paoli Battlefield Historical Park and Paoli Memorial Grounds are located in Malvern.

    The site is operated under an agreement between the PHMC and Chadds Ford Township with the Brandywine Battlefield Associates, or “Friends of Brandywine Battlefield” who now operate the site with staff and volunteers. If you wish to visit this site, please check hours before going. I have frequently passed by the gates here, and they have been closed. This was a brief visit, as I was stopping by after a visit to the Brandywine River Museum, and I plan to return in the future.

    Some views of the Gideon Gilpin Homestead. The home here is believed to have been used by Lafayette.
    The Benjamin Ring House, said to haven been used a headquarters by George Washington.
    Brandywine Baptist Church sites at the edge of the site.
    One of many United States flags on the site.

  • The Bridges of Chester County, Part I

    This post is just the beginning of the promised photos of covered bridges. I set out on a mission to view and, in most cases, photograph my local covered bridges. For those of you interested in finding these bridges for yourself, I recommend this site. A view of the Knox (Valley Forge) covered bridge can be found in my earlier post.

    Covered bridges were sometimes called “kissing bridges” because they provided some privacy for travellers to sneak a kiss. While at the Mercer’s Mill Covered Bridge, I met a guy who used to bring his girlfriend there from Delaware in the 1980s. So it seems the tradition of young lovers being drawn to covered bridges extended well into the twentieth century.

    The Mercer’s Mills covered bridge.
    Horses hanging out at a nearby farm.

    The Bartram covered bridge straddles the border with Delaware County on Crum Creek. It would make one end, at least, Delaware County’s only covered bridge.

    The Bartram Covered bridge.

    The Gibson covered bridge sits along side a busy road. Traffic through the bridge is only one way. The eastern side has a parking area for access to local hiking in the Brandywine Meadows Preserve.

    The Gibson Covered Bridge.
    The Larkin Covered Bridge – sadly out of use, but it has a walking path nearby.

  • Have a Happy New Year

    I hope everyone is having a happy holiday season. Christmas season for me lasts until Epiphany, so I thought I’d throw in some additional holiday cheer from a local office building. I love the open, sunny interior of this building and all the plants.

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